ROME: Still My Camino

We stopped at the offices where we ordered Papal Blessings and I ordered one for my 70th birthday.  They will mail it to my house.

Then we went to the office of the Vatican Observer, the Pope's Journal/newspaper.  Jude ordered back copies for research he is doing.   Going in and out we stopped at the chapel to St. Anne.  Jude has a special devotion to Mary and her mother Saint Ann.

Then we went for a coffee and to the Metro Station to go to St. John Lateran.  This is a Basilica of St. John Baptist.  His bones are entombed there.

Then off to the Basilica of the Holy Cross.  We climbed wooden steps on our knees where the spots of Jesus blood were marked with brass plates.  Round glass [sic]---to a special reliquary and then exited down another flight of steps.

From there we got back on the Metro and made our way to the CPPS house where Jude lives-although he is a diocesan priest.

I stayed in the chapel while he was getting some of his work done.  While in chapel, one of the Order priests came in and was preparing to say Mass.  I asked if I could stay and he was eager to have me.  So this is where I was to share in the Mass today.

I stood next to the altar with him and shared deeply in the Mass that he had chosen for today, which was Saint Teresa. From oct 1st.  He invited me to do the reading which was Nehemiah 8,1-4a,5-6, 7b-12.  This reading brought me to tears.  My insides were in so much turmoil by the absence of women's presence that I was aching.  I found comfort in these words.  The priest, whose name I don't know, shared a short teaching on the scriptures that also warmed my heart.  He went out of his way to share everything in English and to help me feel comfortable.

Fr. Jude arrived at the Communion.  The priest shared his large host with me and, for the second time today, the host dipped in wine was placed on my tongue.

When all was complete we went to lunch where I was the only visitor and the only womanpriest with about 40 menpriests.  Get the picture?

Today I shared with Fr. Jude that often others encourage me to develop a special relationship or cultivate friendships.  I am aware that most whose lives intersect with mine need me to be priest, counselor, nurturing parent....these may look like friendships but they aren't.  A friendship is where both share deeply and equally.  There are simply very few people that I can be in that kind of relationship with by the nature of my call.

Fr. Jude said, "The Holy Spirit is a jealous God.  You are called to do what you are doing and being. There is no room or time for anything else."

That really got my attention.

I also have noted that several times during this lengthy time away I thought about taking experiences and thoughts home to share with my mom only to be reminded that she is not here in the flesh to share everything with as I always have.  Mom was my best friend and the Holy Spirit let me enjoy that special relationship for all of my life with her.   No wonder I miss her so much.  There is simply no way to fill that void.  There is no one who can.  So I am pondering what these next 20 years will look like???  Jude says exactly what I would say to some one who would approach me with this dilemma of the heart: "Stay open to the whims of the Spirit.  She is full of surprises."

I am experiencing the fullness and the emptiness of the dark night of the Soul. I am so full of emptiness that I have to take serious action and I need to do that as soon as possible.  It is like the opening of the book of Genesis when the Spirit hovered over the Chaos of creation putting it all in place.  The Void/the Darkness holds all manner of possibility if we just pay attention and allow the frightful process of Spirit stirring it all up and EXPECTING you/me to have a heart big enough to hold the stirring, the fire, the fermenting, the distilling.  Like a hungry child waiting in anticipation of what mom is cooking up to satisfy the deep hunger.  I must admit that the Camino hasn't concluded for me yet.  Today as I climbed the SCALA Sancta on my knees, I knew that for certain.  As I follow Jude around Rome in this whirlwind of activity, I know that.  There will always be more than I can hold.

This afternoon I have spent processing and praying in the Seminary chapel.  One of the priests came in, opened the Tabernacle so that he could sit and gaze on the Holy Sacrament that was consecrated at the Mass in which I shared this morning.  He pulled out his prayer bench and sat in profound silence for an hour or more.  All the while I was present.  He acknowledged my presence and went into his deep contemplation as I witnessed his love and adoration.  Thank God for today's opportunities for loving witness.

Response:  the precepts of the Lord give joy to the heart.

#Pilgrim

ROME - Friday, October 16, 2015

Today started early.  I was out the door by 6:45 and only way to Saint Peter's Square to meet Fr. Jude.  I planned to be 15 minutes early and I'm so glad I was .  Being there in the pre-dawn with the night lights still glowing, while Watching the sun come up was magical.  Seeing tourists coming by groups by 7:00 am to beat the crowds.  Pops Francis has a lot of crowd appeal and the numbers here are amazing.  Soon the lights went out and Father Jude arrived from the Metro.  We went through security and entered Saint Peters Basilica while watching a work crew hanging large art pieces on the from of the building using cranes and man power pulling ropes to lift the large works.  

Once inside I looked around a little.  Jude pointed out the altar to St. Gregory--there are numerous altars around the circumference of the room.  There are also altars on the lower level.  Jude met a brother Nigerian and they decided to co-celebrate--Fr. Patrick who works in the Vatican Museum.  There was a couple from Toronto, Canada present celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary and the gentleman was asked to read the scripture.  Today is the feast day of St. Margaret Mary.

This is the first time in a long time that Mass was said with the priests back to me and that the host was dipped into the wine and placed on my tongue.

I celebrated the Mass with them once again feeling the harsh absence of the feminine.

After Mass, Jude had some errands to run at the Vatican.  I enjoyed following him through the winding ways, talking to Swiss Guards and maneuvering in and out of various offices.

#Pilgrim

CERTIFICATE OF COMPLETION

(October 12,  2015)

 Here is my personalized certificate of completion.  775km completed.  Started at Saint Jean Pied du Port on September 3,2015 completed on October 8,2015.

There is much folklore in Galacia about witches and supernatural, especially nature spirits.  Dennis pointed out that with my flyaway silver hair I highly resemble this little "Brugha".  What do you think? Any resemblance?

#Pilgrim

ENJOYING WIND AND SUN

(received October 11, 2015)  
My bunk in Melide.  My hat with flowers for courage, my pack which holds all of my earthly possessions for these 6 weeks of travel, my bed sack that I made from an old flannel sheet that Jessie (my niece) had given me years ago, is spread out for a night of rest.  Must say I was always glad for the extra blankets that were available during these cold nights.

Enjoying the strong wind and the warm sun.

The COLD, the WET, and the CHALLENGES

(October 4-5, 2015)

These have been challenging days because of the weather.

We thought it couldn't get any worse than yesterday and we were wrong.  Yesterday, even with our rain covers over our packs and ponchos over that, still everything is wet.  My bed sheet was even damp last night. I put it in the dryer for a while with not much effect.  The dryers here are very different from what we have.  Took a long time to dry out all of our wet clothes. 

Today the rain poured down almost the entire time of walking.  The wind got so strong that we were nearly airborn.  I felt like a kite about to lift off!  It was really quite a challenge as we walked into the wind and were being confronted with driving rain slamming us in our faces.

We finally found a place to get in out of the weather where we stopped for something warm to eat.  The wind was so strong that, while we were outside the cafe, it blew their 4-5 foot sign over and ripped, torrentially waving the canvas awning as water poured off of it like a waterfall. 

Needless to say we were glad for a respite, however we were very cold and soaked to the skin.  We teased about this experience giving new meaning to "walking on water."  Our boots sloshed as we trod on, our pants stuck to our legs, our long sleeved clothing was drenched.  There was simply no getting away from the cold since we were so wet.

I had a couple of cups of hot tea with bacon and eggs.

We started out again when the wind and rain calmed down a bit only to have it all kick up with more ferociousness than earlier.  We were way past the point of caring about the rain since there was no way that we could be anymore wet and cold.

I can't help but wonder why this is happening now during these final days of our Camino  de Santiago?  Almost feels like a desperate attempt to keep us from succeeding.  On Saturday I visited Urgencia to see a medical doctor.  I knew I was coming down with bronchitis so I thought it best to get an antibiotic.  She agreed with me and I started taking the Medicine Saturday evening.  This weather has been even more of a challenge to my breathing and energy.   So what is this all about?

In the evening we attended the Pilgrims Mass at the Santiago Church in Melide.  The priest was amazing in the way that he welcomed all of us.  He came into the congregation to find out where everyone came from and spoke a welcome in several languages.  At the end of the Mass we all circled the altar for a blessing and sprinkling of holy water.  It was all very moving.

We connected with the mother-daughters team from Australia: Helen, Angela Hatton? And her sister.  Enjoyed a wonderful meal together and had the restaurant call the Albergue to ask what to do since we would be getting back after curfew.

Today was another day of rain and cold. I have certainly had enough of this weather.

Tomorrow is supposed to be only cloudy. We will walk to San Lazaro and James will go into Santiago to meet up with his "wee" wife.  More on that another time.  Actually there is so much that I pondered today that I have not written.

The relative ness of suffering .....

What is suffering one day is negligible in the light of the next day's challenges.

Bathroom and hall lights on timers...being left on the dark...bowing to the bathroom door!

Paths became rivers....almost lost my shoe to the mud.

I'm falling asleep.  Got to go now.

Buen Camino,

Pilgrim Carol

QUEIMADA - Witches Brew

(October 12, 2015)

This is a video of Nuno preparing the Galacia Witches Brew for us.  It is a very special warm after dinner drink presented on fire....hopefully to burn off all of the alcohol.  Experiencing these local traditions are so delightful.  With me at table are Dennis, my traveling companion and Tony, a Pilgrim we connected with a while back and have had the blessing of sharing with him once again before he heads home to British Columbia, Canada.

MANUEL and DOCENDA

So much has been happening and I have had a time trying to keep up with it all.  I very much want to journal every awareness and I am overwhelmed by the multitude of new thoughts. Part of the problem is the technology limitations while traveling in the remote areas and having to post info when wifi is available.

Some thoughts ....

Today I walked from Sarria beginning the countdown to Santiago.  There has been much that wasn't expected ... But that's the Camino.  I have certainly learned a lot from making this journey and I know there is much to come.

Today we walked much further, and a much more difficult terrain than expected.  The climbs were steep and the villages and stopping places much further than our guidebook indicated.

We thought we would not make it.  We each carried our packs and the weight bore down on us. Our feet, our shoulders, and our backs were asking for rest.  We did stop a couple of times but it was simply not enough.  We needed to get to a refuge and we both knew it. We were no longer any help to each other.  It is an interesting dynamic to observe what happens when we believe we are out of resources and have no further options.  I observed the way we each began to round up our individual resources to make it to our destination.  When in pain, and with the fear of not making it, we became single minded.  It was difficult to consider anything accept our own needs. We became protective and lost the larger vision.

Earlier in the day as we walked through small, two house villages, we were approached by an elderly woman running out of her house calling "Ola" with a dish of freshly made crepes that she sprinkled with sugar, folded with her fingers and handed one to each of us. We were open and so cordial.  She let us take a picture of her dish of crepes but not of her.  

Manuel and Docenda

Manuel

Last evening we walked the streets meeting a couple of the Village residents.  Manuel, an elderly gentleman greeted us with a warm smile.  We interacted through the language barrier with smiles, touch and gentle inviting eyes.  I snapped a quick picture of him and showed him his likeness.  His face lit up and now he welcomed Dennis taking a picture of me with him.  It was a magical moment.  We continued on and an elderly woman who had been walking before us, in and out of shadows, as if wondering who these strangers were on this quiet back road.  She obviously saw us interact with Manuel and now she positioned herself so that we not only would see her but we would walk directly toward her.  We approached carefully, smiled and greeted her gently.  Love comes in many forms. Greeting these simple

Docenda

beautiful people who are filled with curiosity about these pilgrims from all over the world who sometimes leave the worn path and spill into the less traveled roads near their  homes is such a sacred privilege.  Again a picture, the sharing of a name, Docenda, so priceless, so intimate, so precious and then that smile beyond the smile of greeting.  That wider deeper smile that reveals one's soul and soft spots.  That's what it means to me to be a pilgrim.  It means sharing the delight of Light.  O Thankfullness!